Seersucker Suit: Simplicity 3628 & McCalls 5523

   For the past few years I have been helping our local Literacy Council by gathering auction items, donating items and volunteering during the Big event; which is a silent and live auction.  This year I wanted to sew up something classic and dressy (in part because the Key Note speaker was Charles Frazier, he wrote "Cold Mountain".) yet, I would also need something cool and comfortable, cause when dinner is served during the event I am frantically wrapping artwork for the winning bidders.  So, this year I came up with a seersucker suit. ( I love saying that!)  The patterns I used were the following:  The skirt, McCall's 5523 (View B) pleats in the back.

The Jacket Simplicity 3628 (View A) Pleats on pocket and sleeves.

 

  Fashion fabric for both jacket and skirt:  blue and white strip seersucker / 100% cotton from Hancock Fabrics. Lining for both jacket and skirt:  white cotton lawn from Fabric.com

 

"Seersucker Suit"  photo in Grove Arcade

      Here are my notes:  For the jacket: (Made two muslins to get the correct fit) Sewed using French Seams for the lining and jacket.  Additional ease to the cap sleeve to make gathers.  Shortened the sleeves by 1/2". Shortened the shoulders by 1/4".  Added 1/4" to front and front sides for the girls. Added 1/4" to back side seams. Lengthened torso 1". Instead of three 3/4" buttons I opted for five 1/2" buttons. (I did cheat a little cause I was running out of time.  Instead of hand stiching the hem on the jacket I did a machine hem.) For the skirt: Sewed using French Seams, Hong Kong seams for zipper.  Used a different pattern for the front of skirt. I am not a big fan of side zippers and having two seams run down the front.  Instead, I did a basic two dart in waist and on fold. Put an invisible zipper in the back.  Added a waistband with eye and hook. 

 

Check out my photos:



"With Hello Kitty Purse"

 

"Check out the pleats on the sleeves and pockets"

 

"Yes I am wearing a Hello Kitty watch too"

 

"Mr. Charles Frazier and Me"

 

    Poor Mr. Frazier, this was at the end of the auction; which was the only time I could try to get a photo with him. He graciously took a photo with me. (Although, I think it helped that I had 5 books for him to sign:) My friend Rach flew up for the event and took this photo for me.  She is great! AND Glenn, the famous photographer took the rest of my photos.

 

   Oh, here is a detail shot of the back of the skirt:

 

 

    This is a very cool, classical and comfortable suit.  I can see me wearing this for many years!

 

 

 

   

 



 

 

 

 

Simplicity 1939/ Cynthia Rowley dress in cotton gauze

   Ok, when a pattern suggests a fabric it doesn't necessarily mean it is the right choice for your sewing skill level. What I am trying to say is this: one of the suggested fabrics for pattern 1939 is gauze, and sewing this dress in a crinkle gauze is not something to try if you are a novice sewer like myself....trust me on this one.  When I told the girls at Hancock what I was sewing and that the fabric was a crinkle gauze...well, their mouths dropped, especially when I mentioned I sewed the dress in French seams.  I seem to get that response a lot...now that I think about it.  Anyway, a nice easily pressed fabric would have been a better choice, oh well.  On a positive note, this is a cute lightweight dress and I  love the color.

"Devil's Court View, Blue Ridge Parkway, 5700 feet elevation'



    Here are the in's and out's of my sewing notes for S 1939.  Fabric choose: cotton crinkle gauze in a warm blue.  Adjustments:  Added 1" to lengthen torso.  After I sewed the dress up, I did add a thin 3/8" knit non roll elastic and casing to the waist because the dress was shapeless without it. Added eye and hooks to the front neckline for modesty.  Although, the next one I sew in cotton sateen I will bring the neckline up. I really am lazy about sewing on extra snaps and hooks,etc.  Sewed in French seams, and self bound seams on the zipper side. As far as the instructions: they were pretty clear and I didn't have trouble understanding them. The ties were a little tricky but I finagled them.

"On a ledge.....of course the words were ringing in my ears from my Mom, "Don't get to close to the edge!"

   Photo shoot:  Once this dress was completed I knew exactly the location to photograph it.....The Blue Ridge parkway at Devil's Court View.  So Sunday I managed to twist Glenn's arm and got him to help me with this project. We were both tired but the sky was cloudy and perfect for photos....so with no energy we headed off. In addition,  I knew it would not be an easy photo shoot, cause you have to hike 20 minutes to get to the edge of the cliff; which is at a 5700 feet elevation.  So I put the dress and heels, etc. in my backpack and up we went.  I was surprised at how  many people were on the cliff and changing out of my shorts and shirt and into the dress was challenging.  I might have accidently flashed a few people, but what the hell I figured I would never see these people again. I had to laugh when an elderly lady asked if I hiked in my heels...of course the answer was "yes!" 

 Check out these photos:

"After hiking up...starting to apply makeup"

"It was a little windy up on the ledge"

"Sitting on Ledge"

"Famous Photographer:  Glenn"

   All in all is was a perfect photo day.  Glenn and I found some really cool streams that we want to  play in once when it gets hot next summer. Glenn said for the next photo shoot he wants to go to a beach.....so I will begin my research, and now figure out what I can sew for the beach photo shoot.





McCalls6249: Loungewear nice enough to hang in a closet

      Typical me, I fell in love with this cotton fabric from Hancock Fabrics even before I had a pattern; however, I did know that a I was going to make a pajama set....so that is how I started this project.  Yes, the romantic in me, loved the antique red roses and french writing......well ya'll know I am from New Orleans, so what was not to love about this print? 

    Next, I found the pattern.... McCalls 6249  .  The pattern says Easy....and it really was, except for one trifle pattern piece, the facing.  On the pattern piece it says to cut 2; which is what I did.  However, on the fabric lay out the pattern piece is lined on the fold.  When I started constructing the top I thought I cut the facing wrong and it needed to be on the fold; however, after about an hour of thinking how I was going to fix the mistake (that was never there) I decided to pick up some trim and create detail on the collar since I had to sew the facing to the front of the shirt.  At this point I was making the entire facing and shirt more complicated with the added detail trim; however, I believe the trim on the collar made the top more elegant then I could ever image.  Isn't learning to sew a lot about fixing/negotiating the problems anyway?  At least it is for me.

                                                     detail of trim on collar and facing

   Here is the low down on my adjustments:  Lengthened torso 1", major full arm adjustment, Added 1" to rise, although I really needed to add only a 1/2".  Shortened legs and should have taken in pants a little bit. (but they are very comfortable)  Sewed using French Seams, and made bias tape from a beautiful white cotton stripe for self binding facing seams.  Lastly, I added a delicate white trim to edge of collar and along front facing. Also, should mention, a tag or piece of ribbon should be sewn on the back of pants, otherwise it is very difficult to tell the front from the back.

detail of self bound seam/ inside facing

 Loungewear nice enough to hang in the closet!

Loungewear turned out nicer then expected!

Next, a set in black cotton lawn; which has become one of my favorite fabrics to sew and wear.

Vogue Pattern 8894...Makes me want to dance

Oh I have been wanting to sew a light, airy, summer dress for work; however, it needed to look professional too. So I started on a fabric hunt, and found a beautiful Maggie London cotton voile on sale from FabricMartFabrics.com .  Next, was the pattern, and Vogue 8894 (view A) was it. 

Here are the details:  Shell fabric: Maggie London cotton voile.  Inside fabric:  cotton lawn underlined bodice and cotton lawn lined skirt. French Seams and self bound seams for zipper.

Check out the photos:  

 

Inside front of dress

Inside: Underlined bodice and lined skirt in cotton lawn

 

Inside: back of dress

 

Adjustments:  lowered torso 1"  (which brings the dress waistline 1" above natural waistline), and shortened sleeves 1".  (Although, if I make another dress using this pattern, I will shortened the sleeves 1 1/2" ).  Rolled hem instead of narrow hem for skirt.  (The fabric I purchased was a little shy of the 60" required, so I didn't want it to be too short.  Although now that I have worn the dress, I could have made a narrow hem...oh well) I could have taken in the bodice slightly, but when I started the dress it was not as loose as when it was finished. Also, the zipper could have been shorter...definitely did not need the 22" .  Lastly, I did not raise the neckline.  I feel the lower neckline balances the abundant fabric in the skirt.


Yeah, I wore this dress to work on Saturday and received lots of compliments.  I told a pair of ladies that I feel like dancing in the dress, cause it feels so good. I think they thought "nutty sales person".........but seriously I do feel like dancing the tango or flamenco in it.  Check out my dance moves in the dress:

 

"Love the skirt"

 

 

 

3 Tops 1 Hot Pattern(s)

Since the start of summer I decided I needed some lightweight tops... I am really not a big fan of t-shirts for going out in public.  Anyway, I was cruising Fabric.com's website in search for some cotton voile and cotton lawn. (Truth be told, even in the mountains, it gets pretty hot and steamy, especially in July.)  Anyway, while on their site I found this wonderful free download pattern, called the Gypsophelia Peasant Top from Hot Patterns and the suggested fabrics were cotton voile and wovens.  Finding a cute cotton voile print, I decided I had to use the peasant top pattern for the fabric.  Eventually, I ended up making three tops. Here are the details:

Fabrics used:  Cotton print voile, cotton gauze and rayon challis.  Adjustments:  Initially I cut the pattern for a "big 4" pattern size.....however, it ended up being 2 sizes too large. (Alas, I did make a muslin first so it was no big deal.) This pattern is sized for ready to wear.  So if you are a size 12 usually in tops then that is what size you should cut for this pattern. Oh, I do love that french seams are used to sew this pattern.  Although, I wasn't happy about the 3/8" seam allowance.  Also, I did lower the keyhole shape in the neckline....I felt it was too close to my neck and was choking me. 

 My favorite top out of the three I made from this pattern is the white cotton voile in a kimono print from Fabric.com.  This was the third time sewing the top, so I knew all my adjustments.

Cotton Voile Print

Here is the first top I made using the pattern.....a black cotton gauze from my stash.  I believe I picked this fabric from Hancock Fabrics when it was in the "everyday deal section."  Fortunately the fabric was 60" wide; which is what the pattern calls for.

Cotton Gauze

Here is a detail shot of the cotton gauze top with a beautiful glass necklace by Jennifer Kelting.  Jennifer is a local Asheville glass artist.  Her work is uber cute, feminine and we sell her work at Bella Vista Art Gallery ........so I get to wear her jewelry whenever I want!

Flower Glass Necklace

Finally, I made this cute top from a border print rayon challis.  I am not a huge fan of rayon but I love the border.  Also, I am completely aware of how cheesy this photo is.....really I was trying to show off the border.




Cheesy Photo Trying to Show Border Print

"Sacred Places"........series

      This series for me has been a life time of struggling and learning to which I feel I can say I have painted something good.  These new paintings incorporate my love of traveling into the unknown.......or simply put, where there is no map or maybe reaching one's destination and it isn't on the map, and the feeling of awe when you get swept up in the new environment.  For me the white fog in the paintings represent the unknown and the pseudo self portraits are one of zillions of emotions one goes through when traveling the unkown.  This new series is simply called, "Sacred Places".  

"Captured" oil on linen, copper leaf and graphite

         This next painting was the first piece when I started thinking of this new idea of "Sacred Places".  I feel that it is not as successful, but has potential.  Eventually, I want to repaint it in a larger format (3'x4') cause right now I feel it is too small and tight. (18"x 24")  Since I am a tactile person...I don't get upset about re-working or re-doing paintings...it is just part of the hard work that goes into what you love.




"Inner Calling" oil on panel, gold leaf, charcoal

      I would to hear feedback on these paintings.  ENJOY!

Vogue 8815....Love the Peplum

         For the longest time I have been wanting to make a peplum blouse.  I waited until Hancock Fabrics had their $3.99 Vogue pattern sale and then I snatched one up.  The pattern and instructions were so easy, that I whipped out this top in no time.  Also, I contemplated the exposed zipper look for the back; however, I wasn't a fan of the zipper tape showing on the outside.....so I compromised.  I purchased a thick silver metal teeth zipper and sewed the zipper tape to the seam and exposed the teeth.  I really love the way it came out; which is neat and modern. Check out the detail photo of the back of  the top:

"Modern and Neat"

      Here are my  sewing notes for the peplum top:  Fabric used a black cotton broadcloth.  Adjustments:  full arm (and I made a narrow hem for sleeve) and elongated the torso 1 1/4".  (Note:  the waist line for the top is suppose to sit about an inch from you waist, I thought that was to high for me, so I made the waist line of the blouse rest 1/2" above my natural waist....which I think is flattering and comfortable.) I  sewed french seams for the blouse except for the zipper, I self bound my seams.  *Oh, just thought I would mention something about french seams....if the fabric isn't even when you sew your first set of seams then you should trim any excess.  I forgot this and along the waistline where the darts were not perfectly squared....they showed up on the front of the top.  So I had to very carefully trim those fly aways.  Now I am becoming more aware of this the more I sew french seams.

      For the skirt, I decided to use pattern New Look 6107  .  I really like the back vent on this pencil skirt....to me it looks more professional.  Check out the photo:

                                                       "Back vent with regular zipper"

       Here are my sewing notes for this skirt:  Fabric, I choose this Victorian cotton floral.  For the underlining I choose a poly/cotton batiste. Also, made bias tape from the Victorian cotton for self bound seams.  For this skirt I really wanted to try underlining the skirt instead of lining.  *Underlining is when you cut the same pattern pieces for the inside fabric as well as the outside fabric, and baste them together....so that is what I did.  I machine basted the pieces together and then sewed it up following the instructions.  Adjustments:  no measurement adjustments; however, I did change up the zipper installation.  The pattern called for a lapped zipper seam; however, I just did a standard zipper installation.  * I learned this technique of basting the seams together and then putting a standard zipper face down on the inside seam and sew it.  Once you take out the basting it matches up nicely.  It is pretty quick and easy. Although an invisible zipper would have been just as nice and easy.  (Maybe next time I will go for the lapped zipper to test my skills?)  Anyway, I self bound all seams and did a blind hem stitch for hem.  (I love cotton for the blind hem stitch technique....so easy.)   Check out the photo for the inside of the skirt: 

 

"Inside Skirt with self bound seams / underlining"

      So here is my new spring outfit together.  I really love the cotton.........very comfortable and easy.

                                                                              

     

"Spring time outfit"

    Side note:  I had so much fun taking this photo.  It was a cool and wet morning so my bare feet kept sliding and sinking in the mud.