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Wednesday, February 4, 2015

Nice dancing dress in Tango Red Linen/ Butterick pattern 5951

    Where did January go?  In my sewing world, I spent January sewing up a cute new blouse; which was suppose to start the New Year off properly.  However, after making an amateur mistake, yes, I made a pattern adjustment without a muslin test, the blouse turned out wonky under the arms.  A simple bust dart would have taken care of it, but since I did not "fit as you sew"......I ended up donating it.  Oh well.  Moving forward to February.

     In my sewing desk drawer, I had a muslin already cut and ready to sew for pattern Butterick 5951.  As soon as the pattern came out I purchased it.  I love the detail elements, like the elastic in the sleeves, gathers on the front and shoulders, and of course just the over all shape of the pattern. I can see this dress in a summer, fall and spring version.........depending on the fabric. Check out the pattern:

     After sewing up the first muslin I made a few adjustments and moved forward and sewed up another test muslin in Tango Red Linen with a black bemberg lining.  Check it out:

Tango Red Linen

    Fabric and Notion Details:  100 % Tango Red Linen, around 2 1/4 yards.  Purchased from Hancock Fabrics on the clearance section. Cost around $9.00  Also, used black bemberg lining from my stash to line the top of dress. Since I wasn't sure how linen would sew up in this pattern....I didn't line the bottom of the dress.  Purchased Gutterman thread 250 yards for $2.00 (on sale) and from my stash had a matching red tradition zipper and black bias tape for hem and Hong Kong zipper seam. 1/4" elastic for sleeves; which is what I had on hand, but the pattern does call for 1/2"

Elastic in sleeve

   Adjustments: 3/8" FBA. (Although, I could wear the dress without the FBA, I felt uncomfortable, so I went ahead and added it. )  Lengthened the torso 1 3/4" (typical for me) Shortened skirt 2".  Full upper arm adjustment.  (For the next dress I sew in this pattern I am taking a 1/4" off the cap sleeve.  There is just a little too much puff for me) Raised v-neck an 1" up.  (If I would have left it like the pattern called for, I think many people would have a gotten a nice view of the girls.) For future summer dress version I will shorten the sleeves.

   Techniques:  Since I did "fit as I sewed" on this linen dress, I went ahead and machined basted the stitches to make sure everything lined up and fit well.  Then I seam ripped the basting stitches and sewed up like normal.  I used my over cast stitch from sewing machine for seams except for the zipper seam........that I used black bias tape and made a Hong Kong seam.  Also, for the hem, I sewed and understitched black bias tape and then hand hemmed the skirt.  Oh, I hand hemmed the sleeves too, along with the lining to the zipper.  With so much fullness, really hand stitching is the best way.   Now I did "cheat" and machine stitch the lining to the waist line.  Yeah, I have hand sewn lining at the waist line before only for them to come undone.  (I am still perfecting my hand stitches). Also, let me mention something about the neck and shoulder pattern pieces.  It is a little odd making the sharp/pivot turn, when you sew them together.  So I highly suggest basting those pieces together before sewing them.  

Silly dance photo

    Overall Thoughts:  This is a great pattern.  I love that the pattern has a vintage and feminine feel, and is so comfortable and easy to wear.  Now I can start sewing up my fall version in a beautiful dark teal faille. Also, I will fully line the fall and summer version.

spike wanted to join in the fun!