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Monday, December 22, 2014

Simplicity 1692 in navy silk charmeuse

     Inspiration for sewing something new can come in many shapes and sizes. Way back when, I received a present, a  beautiful pair of earrings ...........however, I really didn't have anything to wear with them until now.   check them out: 

Inspiration: Earrings

    About a year ago, Fabric Mart had a wonderful silk sale and I was awe struck when I saw this beautiful navy silk charmeuse.  Yes, this would be the fabric to sew up Simplicity pattern 1692 and would match my beautiful I ordered 2 1/2 yards.
Sewed View A

      Fabric:  2  1/2 yards from Fabric Mart at $8. a yard.  I hand washed this fabric and then air dried it.  Also, I used matching Gutermann silk thread, about 220 yards. 

       Notions:  Five 1/2" buttons.  I made black bemberg bias tape for the zipper seams and the back placket.  Purchased one pack of single fold bias tape for the hem.  Also, used stay tape for the shoulder seams and zipper seams. I have a set of shoulder pads but I did not sew them in. Oh, a little pellon interfacing for the cuffs.

      Pattern Adjustments:  I did sew up a couple of muslin tests. (However, I did forget to sew up the muslin with the shoulder bad) Adjustments made: shortening the sleeves (typical for me) lengthening the torso about 1 1/2"(typical for me) , upper arm adjustment (typical for me) . Added 1/4" more to the hips.  I wish I had added a little to the back sleeve for a back adjustment, next time. 

      Techniques: Sewed using French seams, Hong Kong seams for zipper side and back placket. Sewed stay tape along shoulder seams and zipper seams.  Sewed bias tape to create a neat narrow hem. 

Bias tape hem, bemberg on zipper seam

     Sewing  Issues:  Charmeuse is very slippery and has a mind of its own.  I had a hard time keeping the tucks lined up vertically, they tended to wander off kilter.  I had to sew the neck binding twice.  The first time the gathers weren't centered, again the fabric moved around. Even now the left shoulder seam pulls forward a little. Otherwise, this is a straight forward pattern and wasn't terribly difficult. 

Finished Blouse S1692

     Overall:  I love this blouse even though there are a couple of small issues.  Silk charmeuse feels so good next to the skin and I love the way it shimmers when the light hits it. 
Blouse with corduroy jeans

Silk glamorous!