Yes, I have been dreaming of sewing up a fall suit..........specifically a lined jacket, but nothing too fussy with a matching pencil skirt. I already have a simple skirt pattern altered to fit, so I just needed a jacket pattern. I was drawn to M6902 as soon as I spotted it because of its simple design and that pretty printed "easy" word. In my mind I thought I could whip out this jacket in 2 days............ah such dreamer!
Easy Pattern M6902:
First lets start with the fabric: Black and blue checked heavy linen purchased at Hancock fabrics for about $4 a yard. I purchased 4 yards, enough for a skirt and jacket. Please note: Even though the pattern calls for a fabric with good drape, I choose this heavy black and blue checker linen; which is a little stiff. Something about this fabric caught my eye and I decided to go for it. Maybe it wasn't the best choice. I think a beautiful wool suiting would have been a better choice. Live and learn.
Lining: black bemberg from JoAnn's. Yeah, I purchased it with a coupon so I paid something like $4 a yard. Again, I purchased 4 yards.
Piping: purchased 2 packs of Wrights pre-made black piping. The pattern suggested ribbon which is top-stitched to the pattern; however, I thought piping was a little more high end looking.
Notions: In my stash I had the black rose button. Even though the jacket calls for hook and eyes..........I wanted something more glamorous. Although, I still put in a hook and eye on the inside, for extra holding power. (Should I say suck in power)
Check out my outfit:
|Jacket and matching pencil skirt|
Lets get to the heart of the matter, fitting issues, design changes and the lining.
Fitting: I did make a bodice test muslin for the jacket. (Actually 3 muslins all total) My first mistake was not adding the sleeves to any of the muslins. If I would have added the sleeves, I would have realized I needed a little bit more room in the back area. Second mistake: I should have added a hook and eye at the waist to the muslin so the front of the jacket would close like on the model. Instead I kept pulling the jacket to get a good bust fit; however, each time I did that I had to increase the FBA. I ended up increasing the FBA almost 2 inches, but later after the jacket was finished I had to take apart the lining from the jacket and decrease bust area an 1", because it was way to big. Third Mistake: After adjusting the torso (length and shorten three times) my pattern became skewed and if you notice the closure at the waist is not straight. Fourth Mistake: Lining the jacket. I should have used the bag method; which I found after the fact. Instead I followed the instructions and tried to sew the sleeve lining to the sleeve jacket seam; however, I admit I am not good at it. Fifth Mistake: Design change in sleeve cap, I added a pleat. In my mind I thought it would be a beautiful detail; however, I think it would have looked better if I used a softer drapey fabric. Sixth Mistake: Under-stitching the lining to the outer fabric. Did I miss a step or miss read the instructions? But how can you underline the jacket if you sewed the lining and jacket together all the way around? Anyway, I ended up top stitching the jacket to lining once I turned it right side out. Final mistake: I wish I would have added more fabric to the front center so the V shape wasn't so wide at the top.
|Jumping to stay warm|
|Cool mural on the side of a bar.|
|Backside showing peplum|
P.S. I owe a big thank you to my photographer, who not only got up early on a Sunday morning but also took photos in 35 degree weather. Awesome!