Fabric Fiasco....gets me thinking of spring

        Well, I thought I had a very organized and thoughtful plan to sew my next project; which was BurdaStyle Downloadable Pattern   108B.  However, my fabric choice, turned into a fiasco.  The fabric Burda recommends for this pattern is lightweight wool crepe.  Things were looking great for me when I was at Hancock Fabrics and spotted a beautiful burgundy 100% wool crepe, and I thought this was the perfect fabric for the pleated dress, and with cold temperatures lasting till April..... a lightweight wool dress would be great for Asheville.   Well, the thoughtful plan flew out the window after preparing my fabric.  Here is what happened.  I soaked the fabric in Eucalan wool wash and then placed in the dryer with my wet towel.   When the fabric was completely dry it did felt and expand; which made it too thick for the pleats.  Oh well.  With out a second thought I have moved onto a pretty spring blouse, and will consider a different fabric for 108B.

Wool Crepe Pleated Dress 108B

       While skimming through the Wall Street Journal I came across an article / pictures of the hottest trends for spring...........and this spring it is all about pleats.  (Life is so full of serendipity. )  I fell in love with this Suno Boxy Pleat Top, but not the price $550. Check it out: 

Suno Boxy Pleat Top

    For real, come on $550 and the blouse is not lined and is a mix of mostly poly with a little cotton.  I understand a little bit of poly will keep it from wrinkling but why should the blend be more poly then cotton?  Anyway, my goal is to recreate this blouse using cotton sateen for the shell fabric and lawn for the lining.  Fortunately I have a bodice (which is already adjusted for me) that matches the Suno Boxy Pleat Top.  Check it out, (V8894).

Vogue 8894 / Bodice to be used as a sloper for my version of the Boxy Pleat

    O.k.  I will keep you all posted with my newest idea. Hopefully I will end up with a beautifully pleated blouse for spring.




        

Gold leaf shines in "Travelers"

      My little paintings are making progress, although I will say it is a tedious progress compared to painting in a large format.  Yes, one little line drawn a centimeter too long and the little face paintings become wacky; which is not my ultimate goal.  Anyway, I enjoyed painting "Travelers".  I used a prussian blue/  burnt umber brown mixture for the buildup of the face in the Mom and baby.  Then I used a glazing mixture of terra cotta color to create a flesh tone. I like the way the glaze skims over the buildup of blue brown.  The entire palette of this painting is warm, except for the white titanium glaze that is brushed over the background.  Also, the gold leaf was applied with no attention to detail.......I didn't want any real patterns in the gold leaf.  

    Details:  "Travelers", oil and gold leaf on wood panel. Size: 8"x 10"

Enjoy!

Preview of newest painting: "Beekeeper's Secrets"

   Now that I have some free time, I have been keeping busing in my painting studio.  Here is a preview of a painting that is almost finished.  The title is "Beekeeper's Secrets".  The size is 8" x 10" .  Medium is oil on canvas with silver metal leaf. Enjoy!

"Beekeeper's Secrets"  

Ivory & Eggplant BurdaStyle downloadable blouse 130

       Completed Ivory & Eggplant BurdaStyle downloadable blouse 130.   This is a fairly easy pattern to sew up, but getting a good fit is key.  Here are my notes on adjustments and such.

"Ivory Blouse 130 (first try)"

      Fashion fabric:  Ivory crepe back satin  and crepe in a beautiful eggplant. Sewed using French seams.  Added a bust dart. (which was too low on first try (Ivory crepe back satin, but correct on eggplant blouse.)  I shorten the sleeves 1 1/4", took in about 2" on sides, and added a curve to side seams. Cut off about 3" from the bottom, since I know I will only wear these blouses tucked in. Added bias tape to hem for a nice clean finish.  Also, I didn't cut down the seam allowance around the neck....I like both blouses coming closer to my neck.  Raised neckline in slit an 1" in front, but in the back the length was fine.  Check out the photos:

"Ivory Blouse 130"

"Ivory Blouse 130"

"Eggplant Blouse 130"

"Eggplant Blouse 130"

"Backside of  Eggplant Blouse 130"

    I definitely want to sew another one up in a cotton voile or lawn..........I think it would be gorgeous blouse for summer weather!    



 Photos taken by famous photographer: Glenn

BurdaStyle Downloadable Blouse 130: first attempt

    Moving forward with more BurdaStyle downloadable patterns, I sewed up Blouse 130. (See photo) I love this blouse; however, getting the perfect fit had been a challenge. (I think I have it now, but it took 3 muslins and this wearable muslin to get it right)  This particular blouse pattern has lots of ease, and has a very boxy cut; which doesn't look too flattering on my shape.  However, I still wanted one in my closet, I think it is so elegant. 

     Fashion fabric for wearable muslin:  Ivory/Cream, crepe back satin with the satin on the inside.  Sewed with French Seams.

Wearable Muslin 130/ Cream/Ivory Crepe Back Satin

     Here are my notes to get a better fit: First things first, I needed a bust dart.  Seriously, lets create some definition.  On my test muslin the placement on the bust dart was correct; however, on my wearable muslin, I drew the wrong lines and placed the bust dart too low.  Darn it.  (I should have used a different color for the correct bust dart lines on my pattern, but now I know.)

     I took out around 2" on both side seams, and created a curved seam instead of a straight line seam.  I think if your body has curves, then put some into the pattern.

    Now lets talk about those sleeves. I love the pleats in the sleeves....so beautiful. Also, I had to shorten the sleeves 1 1/2" inches, but I do have short arms.

    I raised the neckline an inch; however, after I sewed it up and tried it on,  I realized the neckline needed to be raised a little bit more.  I ended up slip stitching the front neckline so I wouldn't be flashing anyone. The back slit is the perfect length.

    The bias tape for sleeve hem and neckline.  Ok I tried to sew with a 3/4" inch wide bias tape; which is what Burda suggested......but with all the gathers in the sleeves, I couldn't get that dam bias tape to fold over neatly, and it came out not high quality but more home-made. Now I know, for me, stick with 1" bias tape, that is the narrowest I wish to sew. 

     For the hem: I did cut off about 3" from the bottom.  I know that I will only wear this blouse tucked in, so why have that extra fabric bunching up in the hip area.  Also, I used cream (store bought) bias tape and made a Hong Kong seam............I love this look it is so clean and neat.  

Bias tape on hem

     Things I still need to do:  I wore my wearable muslin blouse one time and in some spots the bias tape on the sleeve came un-done.  Obviously I missed sewing some areas.........so I need to hand slip stitch them together. I do need to fold up the hem 5/8" and hand -stitch. 

      Already I have cut out eggplant crepe fashion fabric to sew up my "real" blouse.  Now with all the corrections: I should end up with a beautiful blouse for my closet.  More photos to come when both blouses are complete.

   

Completed BurdaStyle downloadable 125

      I did it! I completed my first BurdaStyle downloadable pattern, dress 125.........known as my B-day dress. Also, sewed a matching belt.  Check out the (not so great) photo:

Dress 125 with matching belt

       Fashion fabric: black crepe back satin (satin on the inside), and for the front yoke, an inexpensive lace from Hancock. Here are my notes for sewing the dress:  Sewed using french seams and Hong Kong seam for zipper seams. I over locked the edges of the lace.  Also, sewed bias tape to bottom hem edge and slip stitched by hand the hem. ( I think a blind hem stitch would have been better, oh well).  Oh, I did add a 45 degree back vent; which I think looks neater and you don't have to worry about it ripping.  Lengthened the torso 1 1/2" (typical for me). Tapered in the bottom portion of the skirt.  Lengthened sleeves and added an upper arm adjustment. Raised the front yoke a 1/4".  (I should have worn a strapless bra, but didn't realize that till I looked at the photos the next day).  Added a little more fabric to the princess seam bust area but not to the waist. Check out the photos: 

Inside of dress

Inside of dress /detail of lace

back vent with hem

sleeve detail

        A couple of things I learned about sewing with crepe back satin with crepe side as 

the shell fabric.  Any basting should be done by hand with large stitches.  I had made some machine bast stitches and when I went to rip them out the crepe started to pucker and run.  Use silk pins and pin fabric together parallel to seams....this didn't create any puckers or runs. 

      I don't think this particular style dress looks great on me.  BUT having a matching belt defines my waist, so I knew I needed to make one, after trying on my muslin.  For the matching belt I used a Maxant 2" belt buckle and belting.  I used Casey's  technique for belt making.  However, I used a scrap of fabric to do a test run and guess what, I couldn't get the eyelet to grab the fabric.........So I went to my fabric book for help, Handsewn and there is a technique for hand sewing eyelets.........and that is exactly what I did. Check out the photo:

Matching belt /handsewn eyelets

   Glenn and I had a wonderful time celebrating my B-day.   I am looking forward to my next sewing project, BurdaStyle downloadable 130 skirt and blouse.  Now I have to clean up my sewing area and machine.  Yeah, it is a disaster right now! 

     

Look out BurdaStyle patterns

       The New Year has me dreaming of sewing up new patterns. More specifically,  I am determined to sew up some BurdaStyle downloadable patterns.  I must admit, I have put off sewing their patterns because I didn't think I could figure out how to tape them up and then the harder part of actually sewing them up.  The directions don't have any pictures to reference, so you have to comprehend their short sentences.(Not my strong point, hey I am a visual artist). Also, I wasn't sure of the sizing. But in the end I couldn't resist....I mean check these patterns out or should I say check my dream patterns: 

     For my first attempt at sewing a BurdaStyle  downloadable, I choose dress 125.  The reason I choose this dress first is simply because I already have a pencil skirt pattern that has a great fit, and I knew I would be able to use it as a template. AND I am practically a pro at princess seams, cause I should did a lot of them last year.  Also, did I mention this is my B-day dress........so no pressure. right!   Yeah, Glenn and I are going to some fancy bars in Asheville and I wanted a knock out dress. Check it out:

   

     To start, I downloaded the pattern to a disk and went to Kinkos and had them print out the pattern.  You end up with about 20 pieces of paper; which you tape together and then trace onto pattern paper.  Ok I trace my pattern onto inexpensive freezer paper. Check it out:

     Then you add your seam allowances to the pattern. However,  read the instructions carefully cause in certain instances there is no allowance or it is smaller then 5/8".  Also, I don't think you add allowances to the fold side of the pattern. (but I could be wrong).  Thank goodness for the pencil skirt template, cause I was able to simple lay it on top of my burda dress.  Moving along: I made a muslin with zipper.  Check it out:  

muslin for BurdaStyle 125

     I made a few adjustments to the muslin and now I am sewing up the "real" dress.