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Sunday, January 26, 2014

BurdaStyle Downloadable Blouse 130: first attempt

    Moving forward with more BurdaStyle downloadable patterns, I sewed up Blouse 130. (See photo) I love this blouse; however, getting the perfect fit had been a challenge. (I think I have it now, but it took 3 muslins and this wearable muslin to get it right)  This particular blouse pattern has lots of ease, and has a very boxy cut; which doesn't look too flattering on my shape.  However, I still wanted one in my closet, I think it is so elegant. 

     Fashion fabric for wearable muslin:  Ivory/Cream, crepe back satin with the satin on the inside.  Sewed with French Seams.

Wearable Muslin 130/ Cream/Ivory Crepe Back Satin

     Here are my notes to get a better fit: First things first, I needed a bust dart.  Seriously, lets create some definition.  On my test muslin the placement on the bust dart was correct; however, on my wearable muslin, I drew the wrong lines and placed the bust dart too low.  Darn it.  (I should have used a different color for the correct bust dart lines on my pattern, but now I know.)

     I took out around 2" on both side seams, and created a curved seam instead of a straight line seam.  I think if your body has curves, then put some into the pattern.

    Now lets talk about those sleeves. I love the pleats in the beautiful. Also, I had to shorten the sleeves 1 1/2" inches, but I do have short arms.

    I raised the neckline an inch; however, after I sewed it up and tried it on,  I realized the neckline needed to be raised a little bit more.  I ended up slip stitching the front neckline so I wouldn't be flashing anyone. The back slit is the perfect length.

    The bias tape for sleeve hem and neckline.  Ok I tried to sew with a 3/4" inch wide bias tape; which is what Burda suggested......but with all the gathers in the sleeves, I couldn't get that dam bias tape to fold over neatly, and it came out not high quality but more home-made. Now I know, for me, stick with 1" bias tape, that is the narrowest I wish to sew. 

     For the hem: I did cut off about 3" from the bottom.  I know that I will only wear this blouse tucked in, so why have that extra fabric bunching up in the hip area.  Also, I used cream (store bought) bias tape and made a Hong Kong seam............I love this look it is so clean and neat.  

Bias tape on hem

     Things I still need to do:  I wore my wearable muslin blouse one time and in some spots the bias tape on the sleeve came un-done.  Obviously I missed sewing some I need to hand slip stitch them together. I do need to fold up the hem 5/8" and hand -stitch. 

      Already I have cut out eggplant crepe fashion fabric to sew up my "real" blouse.  Now with all the corrections: I should end up with a beautiful blouse for my closet.  More photos to come when both blouses are complete.


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