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Thursday, March 20, 2014

Completed (my ) version of a Suno Boxy Pleat Top

     Even though the temperatures are no where warm enough to wear this top, I still wanted to complete it, and have it ready for warmer weather. Besides, maybe by creating my version of the Suno boxy pleat top a rush of warm weather will hang over us. (wishful thinking).  Check out my version of the Suno Boxy Pleat Top:
Oh, it is windy!

    Here is the low down on how I accomplished this look.  Fashion shell fabric: cotton white sateen in 108" width (I believe), and for the underlining (bodice only) I went with a white cotton lawn (very sheer). I used Vogue 8894 for the bodice; which was already adjusted to my measurements.  Sewed using french seams and hong kong seams with a pretty cotton white print. (As a side note: you should already have a plan on how you want to finish your neckline facing.  Initially I finished the edge using 1/4" seam and overlock but I thought it looked messy and ended up sewing bias tape over it; which created bulk cause I didn't seam rip the overlock.......oh well.)
Love the pleats!

    Closure:  Ok I wish I could have run into a Saks and looked at the original Suno top to figure out the front snaps; however, that was not an option for me.  Since I already made the Vogue 8894 bodice, I knew I could put an invisible zipper in the back.....and still be able to carefully get in and out of it..........and that is exactly what I did. (Although it does take a little maneuvering; which my husband would find amusing.) I used a 14" invisible zipper in the back; which stops right above the pleating. Also, on the front of bodice I did a faux button closure. Here are the details for that.  I used two 3/4" black buttons. Cut out a front and back in shell fabric size: 2 1/2 "x 4".  Interfaced back of 1 fashion fabric and made two button holes.  Then with right sides together sewing the rectangle and leaving a 1/2" opening.  Trim seams and turned right side out.  Pressed and top stitched edges. Sewed buttons on and tacked faux button closure to front of bodice. 
Back side....pleating looks good!

   Pleating:  I decided to go with a 1" pleat.  The length was cut 10" ; which includes a narrow hem and a 5/8" seam to the bodice.  I went ahead and pleated the entire 108" width cause I wasn't sure how many pleats it would take to cover the width of the bodice.  (For sure there is a math equation out there to figure it out, but I was  too lazy to think about it)  Fortunately, the 108" width was more then enough to go around the bodice. I still haven't figured out how to correctly sew the pleated end seams together, so I played with it till it worked. 
front detail

   Tips:  If you decide to use a zipper in the back and stop above the pleating with Vogue 8894, make sure the bodice isn't too fitted otherwise you won't be able to get it off and on.  Also, it is easier to install the zipper first, then attach the pleating.  Keep in mind the bodice sits about 1" above your natural waist line.    
zipper stops above pleats

  For fun: wouldn't this top look great in a fun cotton Kona, with a cool ribbon around the bodice waist, and with broadcloth you wouldn't have to underline or line.  Check out the sketch I did :
Kona cotton in "Fog" with a 1" black ribbon around the waist.

  Ok I am onto my next project (a blouse); which is Simplicity 1693 View A.
Check out the fabric......a beautiful blue teal cotton lace lined with black bemberg.:

Next Project

If anyone out there needs help making a Suno Boxy Pleat feel free to email me, and I will do my best to help.

Happy Sewing.

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