Look out BurdaStyle patterns

       The New Year has me dreaming of sewing up new patterns. More specifically,  I am determined to sew up some BurdaStyle downloadable patterns.  I must admit, I have put off sewing their patterns because I didn't think I could figure out how to tape them up and then the harder part of actually sewing them up.  The directions don't have any pictures to reference, so you have to comprehend their short sentences.(Not my strong point, hey I am a visual artist). Also, I wasn't sure of the sizing. But in the end I couldn't resist....I mean check these patterns out or should I say check my dream patterns: 

     For my first attempt at sewing a BurdaStyle  downloadable, I choose dress 125.  The reason I choose this dress first is simply because I already have a pencil skirt pattern that has a great fit, and I knew I would be able to use it as a template. AND I am practically a pro at princess seams, cause I should did a lot of them last year.  Also, did I mention this is my B-day dress........so no pressure. right!   Yeah, Glenn and I are going to some fancy bars in Asheville and I wanted a knock out dress. Check it out:

   

     To start, I downloaded the pattern to a disk and went to Kinkos and had them print out the pattern.  You end up with about 20 pieces of paper; which you tape together and then trace onto pattern paper.  Ok I trace my pattern onto inexpensive freezer paper. Check it out:

     Then you add your seam allowances to the pattern. However,  read the instructions carefully cause in certain instances there is no allowance or it is smaller then 5/8".  Also, I don't think you add allowances to the fold side of the pattern. (but I could be wrong).  Thank goodness for the pencil skirt template, cause I was able to simple lay it on top of my burda dress.  Moving along: I made a muslin with zipper.  Check it out:  

muslin for BurdaStyle 125

     I made a few adjustments to the muslin and now I am sewing up the "real" dress.  





  

DIY Christmas 2013

    So what do you give friends and family members when they have everything or can buy whatever they want............I know, sew up some pretty things.  (Some where between sewing up two costumes and managing a business during the holidays, I didn't get to sew up as many things as I wanted too, but I am pleased with the quality of the things I did sew.)

    For inspiration, I went directly to 100 pretty little projects  book.  (Please note:  if you decide to sew up projects from this book, check measurements.  I found some of the calculations to be off.  Also, I should mention this book assumes you already know how to install a zipper, clip curves, bind seams, etc.  In addition, the sweet gentleman at Kinkos helped me enlarge the patterns in the back of the book, cause seriously I couln't figure out how to enlarge the xerox to 200%.......and the book assumes you know how to do that too!)

     Check out this sweet little crepe back satin beaded purse I made for friend Rachael.  Oh, this purse was made to complete her costume, Simplicity 2172. (Will include those photos later in the post)  Fabric used: crepe back satin in a brownish fabric for  shell, inside the purse I used a cream crepe back satin, then a satin ribbon for straps and of course glass beads that I hand-sewn down.  Adjustments from book:  enlarged fabric to 16", ironed a lightweight interfacing to wrong side of shell fabric. Used brown embroidery floss to sew beads down. 

"Hand Beaded Purse"

     Another inspired project from the book is......well, meet Ms. Tokyo Rose.  I love this little wallet. (ended up making 3 of them....she is so cute) Fabric: cotton and felt.   Adjustments: I used a black & white polka dot  cotton fabric instead of the heart fabric.  Also,  used a 5" zipper instead of a 5 1/2" zipper.  (I cut down a 7" zipper)

Meet Ms. Tokyo Rose

     Another set of Hello Kitty pillowcases and this wonderful french seam pillowcase tutorial .  Fabric: Hello Kitty cotton fabric, black cotton sateen, and cotton purple print:

"Hello Kitty Pillowcase"

      This little baby dress is a donation for Little Dresses for Africa .  From what I read, they are in need of smaller dresses and boys pull up shorts.  I opted for a small  baby dress pattern. Simplicity Pattern:  4243    Fabric: Kona cotton for sleeves, collars and band, and cotton for body.  Adjustments:  instead of installing a zipper,  I hand sewed little pieces of velcro on the back.   (I used cotton thread to sew two little flowers on the collars, but embroidery floss would have been better. Oh, well lesson learnt) Check out the photo:

"Small Baby Dress"

      Finally, my friend's finished costume, using Simplicity Pattern 2172  The photos aren't the best.  No need to go into all the adjustments details.  Fabric:  shell, cotton broadcloth.  Lining: Bemberg Rayon.  Trim:  an organza from Vogue Fabrics.   The instructions for this pattern are  pretty straight forward.  The front pockets are super cool.  I learned how to sew in boning with casing  along with sewing in a seperating zipper. (Never did this before till this pattern.)  I will mention, since Featherweight boning didn't mention this in the instructions,  iron out your boning and wash and dry your casings before sewing.  Also, I wish I would have seen Burdastyle's lesson on sewing the pleats, cause they suggested you sew down the inside of the pleat to maintain the shape.  Oh well. Another lesson learnt.   Check out the photos:

Lined Jacket with Lined Bustier



Pleated skirt

      Now that I have another year of sewing under my belt, I thought I would mention a few things I learned this year.   Maybe they will help you too.


1.  Make a muslin for the top half of your body.  For example: blouses, top half of dresses.  Once you get the right fit.........it makes sewing up your real fabric so much easier.....it really saves time in the long run.

2.  Create a paper template  for a good fitting bodice and skirt.  It makes adjusting patterns a lot quicker.  For example, when I cut out a new skirt pattern, I pull out my paper skirt template (which is a perfect fit for me) and check waist and hip measurements.   I will already have a starting place for adjustments.

3.  Cut curves on inside seams.  This should become second nature to a sewist.  No matter if  the seam is a neck seam,  or a pricenss seam.  This will keep ripples down.

4.  It is ok to sew things out of your comfort zone............that is how you learn.  Since I have had no formal training........I would not have been able to achieve the  quality of sewing I long for if I didn't keep pushing myself.

5.  Have a collection of quality books on hand.  Here are some of my favorites:

      Fitting Finesse          Fit for Real People        Handsewn




     Happy Creating in 2014.  








    

Completed: Simplicity 2207 Victorian Steampunk Costume

         

           Here it is, my costume for Dickens Festival.  

 

At the end of the night..........I am still standing

                Happy Holidays!

Sneak Peak: Images of finished Steampunk Costume for Dickens Festival

      Holy Gathers! I finally finished my steampunk costume for Dickens Festival; which is December 7th.   I really didn't want to be sewing on buttons or hemming right before the event, so I started a month in advance..........and I am so glad I did.  I ended up creating 3 muslins for the jacket to get the correct fit. However, the jacket fits perfectly, although there is no room for weight gain, so I have been on my best eating behavior, and I added extra work outs for "just in case".  Yeah, I had Glenn laughing when I explained that I sewed the muslins in an inexpensive poly cotton broadcloth; which now that I think about it has more give and less room for error in sewing compared to the slipperyness and no give of poly satin, and I was concerned about button strain.  Glenn said, "Thank goodness we have insurance that covers other people, cause there might be some eyes balls popping out from the buttons flying off."  AND there are a lot of buttons on the jacket, 19 in all , with 11 down the front and 8 on the cuffs. 

Check out the sneak peak photos of the bustle and jacket:

Holy Gathers!  Check out the velvet trim and biased seams.  Yes, I sewed the ends with bias tape........no serging.

 

 

 



Here is a detail photo of the jacket's cuff.  The jacket is sewed in French Seams.

 

 

 

       Glenn and I are looking forward to the party......who doesn't like to play dress up every once in a while. 

Preview of Steampunk Costume for Dickens Festival in Biltmore Village

        The first weekend in December each year Biltmore Village in Asheville puts on an event called Dickens Festival.  The idea is Victorian England comes alive with performers and shopkeepers dressing up in Victorian garb.  Since this will most likely be the last time Glenn and I attend the event, we decided to go "all out" by throwning a party at the gallery for the first Saturday, Dec. 7th.  Selfishly I used the party as an excuse to sew this fabulous Steampunk Costume.  Pattern:  Simplicity 2207. Check it out:

    Fabric choose: poly Monece Satin from Hancock in a beautiful shade of cranberry with black contrasting thread and notions.  (Ok in my fantasy world I would have chosen a silk satin, but thankfully the practical side of my brain prevailed, otherwise this would have been a very expensive costume).  Here is a sneak peek of the skirt; which is almost finished, just need to sew on trim and take it in a little bit at the waist.

   And here is another photo with a closer look at the fabric.

   Also, the bustle is almost finished, and next up is the top.

WNCAP Preview Party, wearing "Licorice Dress with Venise Lace insert and matching belt"

      Every year WNCAP has a preview party; which not only launches ticket sales for their up-coming silent and live auction, but also, has some of their auction items on display along with food and wine as a way of thanking their donors and sponsors.  Since I donated a painting, Glenn and I were invited to attend.  Of course the first thing that comes to my mind is "What am I going to wear?"

     While in my local Hancock Fabrics store just to pick up thread and a zipper, I made my way over to the cotton poplin section...then sitting right next to the poplin section was the shirting section.  Well this beautiful blue shirting fabric screamed out..... "Pick me." AND I let my inner demon win.   Fortunately I had a plan...I knew I was going to make Colette Patterns "Licorice Dress" and I would have to make it in one week for the WNCAP preview party. 

      Even though I was short on time, I wanted to make the dress with the lace insert  and with the matching fabric belt and buckle.  Some how I was able to pull it together.  Check out the photo:

"Speaking with local celeb George"

     Here is the downlow on the dress.  Fashion Fabric:  cotton / poly blend shirting.  Lining: (Splurge) Bemberg lining in black. I made two muslins to get the correct fit (I am so glad Sarai, of Colette Patterns said to work on a proper fit in her book, this dress could have been seriously slutty or seriously dowdy if I hadn't) I had to let out the double darts (so I could breathe), lower the bust darts and lengthen the torso (typical for me). Since I lengthened the torso I took off some length from the hem.  I did use a 2" Venise lace for the insert.  Also, I could have made this dress a tad longer........it is definitely not a sitting dress unless I have tights or leggings  underneath. Instead of using elastic in the sleeve, I choose to make a bias sleeve cuff.  Also, sewed the lining and fashion fabric in French seams and made Hong Kong seams for zipper side.

     

"What is so funny?"

       As for the belt, I purchased a 2"  Maxant belt buckle from Vogue Fabrics, and the belting from Mood . A couple of things that I screwed up on the belt......I made the belt length too long.  I should have tested this before I sewed up the fabric.  (that is why my hand is on my hip to hold the belt down). Also, the sticky adhesive the attaches the fabric to the buckle is really sticky and you should try to get it straight the first time...it took me a couple of tries to get the fabric square on the buckle, and then the fabric wouldn't stick to the buckle...cause I ripped the adhesive off....bummer. I used blue eyelets for the belt, and black I think would have been better.  OH, I did purchase an eyelet hole punch and it was very easy to use.  Even though I made some mistakes, I still love the Licorice dress with the matching belt.  I can see me sewing up more matching belts in the future.   

detail of Venise lace on bottom of dress

Seersucker Suit: Simplicity 3628 & McCalls 5523

   For the past few years I have been helping our local Literacy Council by gathering auction items, donating items and volunteering during the Big event; which is a silent and live auction.  This year I wanted to sew up something classic and dressy (in part because the Key Note speaker was Charles Frazier, he wrote "Cold Mountain".) yet, I would also need something cool and comfortable, cause when dinner is served during the event I am frantically wrapping artwork for the winning bidders.  So, this year I came up with a seersucker suit. ( I love saying that!)  The patterns I used were the following:  The skirt, McCall's 5523 (View B) pleats in the back.

The Jacket Simplicity 3628 (View A) Pleats on pocket and sleeves.

 

  Fashion fabric for both jacket and skirt:  blue and white strip seersucker / 100% cotton from Hancock Fabrics. Lining for both jacket and skirt:  white cotton lawn from Fabric.com

 

"Seersucker Suit"  photo in Grove Arcade

      Here are my notes:  For the jacket: (Made two muslins to get the correct fit) Sewed using French Seams for the lining and jacket.  Additional ease to the cap sleeve to make gathers.  Shortened the sleeves by 1/2". Shortened the shoulders by 1/4".  Added 1/4" to front and front sides for the girls. Added 1/4" to back side seams. Lengthened torso 1". Instead of three 3/4" buttons I opted for five 1/2" buttons. (I did cheat a little cause I was running out of time.  Instead of hand stiching the hem on the jacket I did a machine hem.) For the skirt: Sewed using French Seams, Hong Kong seams for zipper.  Used a different pattern for the front of skirt. I am not a big fan of side zippers and having two seams run down the front.  Instead, I did a basic two dart in waist and on fold. Put an invisible zipper in the back.  Added a waistband with eye and hook. 

 

Check out my photos:



"With Hello Kitty Purse"

 

"Check out the pleats on the sleeves and pockets"

 

"Yes I am wearing a Hello Kitty watch too"

 

"Mr. Charles Frazier and Me"

 

    Poor Mr. Frazier, this was at the end of the auction; which was the only time I could try to get a photo with him. He graciously took a photo with me. (Although, I think it helped that I had 5 books for him to sign:) My friend Rach flew up for the event and took this photo for me.  She is great! AND Glenn, the famous photographer took the rest of my photos.

 

   Oh, here is a detail shot of the back of the skirt:

 

 

    This is a very cool, classical and comfortable suit.  I can see me wearing this for many years!